Friday, January 7, 2011

MP05

The Core Problem on MP05 ended up being in the Output Card Plug itself.  J1 on the plug is the +24VDC for the first four outputs.  If you took the plug off and looked at it, the pins in the socket were broke on one side and bent back on the other.  Gary replaced the plug and so far it is OK.

 

Thanks

 

Joshua Ledbetter

Molding Maintenance Manager &

Manufacturing Engineer

Oreck Manufacturing Company

(C) 931-239-3235

(F) 931-646-7615

 

1.6.11 D-shift...Sean

Mp#5- had problems with cores again off/on all night (4 times).

I swapped out cards, solenoid coils, checked power supplies (except under load when problem occurs), ohmed out each contact on card 6's terminal strip back to common strip.

Checked the 235 contactor contacts and voltages (safety gate relay). The last thing I did to get it running again was to spray out from behind the backplane with dustoff.

Also checked for loose wires in the core switch boxes...although signals were present anyway.

When it malfunctions, it simply does not indicate on the board that it is outputting a signal. It is running now but thats where I was with it.

DR 23- The Milacron dryer was overtemp1 alarming. I went through the normal checklist and the only thing I noticed was that the cabinet fans were not working due to the faulty temp switch that controlled them. I jumpered the switch and it seemed to have fixed it.

Call if you have any questions. Good weekend to all!

Sean

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Jan 6, 2011

Thursday, January 06, 2011,

 

Finished conveyor docking on IML automation cell.

 

Worked w/ Randy Russell on new Bag Dock Heat Staker station design.  Gathered materials for job.

 

Worked on materials for new Fan Housing Tester.

 

8 and skate today.

 

 

Mark McKee

Technical Specialist

Oreck Manufacturing Company

1400 Salem Rd

CookevilleTN  38506

mmckee@oreck.com

PH      931.646.7856

CELL  931.644.5289

FAX    931.646.7615

 

1.5.11- Dshift...Sean

Mp#5- Cores quit working again. I went through and rang everything out from the #57 common wire, through to the output card's terminal strip at A233. It ohmed out fine. I looked at the backplane with the card out and some of the prongs that hold the card in position may have been spread out more than the others so I used a pin to push them back and help grip the board better. Put it back together and they started working again.

I pretty much went over everything looking for a loose connection and really didn't find anything...so it made me ask if the output card had something getting hot and cutting out? Then after awhile, it was cooling down and working again? We'll see?

Mp#23- was giving an 32036 alarm involving the ejectors possibly "timing out too soon?"
we put some cycle start time on it and slowed down the ejectors and it seemed to have went away.

I sent a molding support workorder regarding sled skate strips coming out. FYI. Need to find a way to keep that brass under there...open for suggestions.

Worked on PM #9- press and robot.

Have a good day.

Sean

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

January 5, 2011

Wednesday, Jan 5, 2011

 

Put MP13 back together, broken butterfly bolts, had to extract one screw.  Knockout bars were different lengths.  I noticed that the butterfly plate has been welded on and the bolt heads have to be turned down to enter the counterbore, so I think we should order a new one.

 

Wired the conveyor up for the automation cell for IML, working on the docking locators for it.  Received the locate and shuttle tooling from Star.

 

Made a list of tooling that needs to be made for Josh on the new fan housing tester.  Need to order the rest of the purchased item tomorrow.

 

8 and skate today.

 

Mark McKee

Technical Specialist

Oreck Manufacturing Company

1400 Salem Rd

CookevilleTN  38506

mmckee@oreck.com

PH      931.646.7856

CELL  931.644.5289

FAX    931.646.7615

 

Monday, January 3, 2011

1.2.11 - D-shift Sean

Worked on PM's.

Robot and Press#5 tonight. The Y-axis lower pulley was bent and scraping the arm. I tried straightening it and using longer screws and nuts behind them. It didn't seem to help much so I added a right angle bracket to help brace it better.

It repair works... but... the drawback is that it shortened up the distance the Y-axis goes fully up by about 2cm. I had to adjust the Y-home switch for the repair also. It does clear the tiebars and door when traveling out the beam though.

Now we are getting ready to run it. Also used a hand grinder to clean the drag marks and burrs from the Y-arm.

Other than that, worked on regular start up stuff, nothing major.

Call if there are any questions. Have a nice day!

Sean